Peg Tennant remembers finding only basic produce — iceberg lettuce was a big star — in grocery stores on Whidbey Island. That’s changed. Today, produce sections shine with vibrant fruits and robust vegetables year round. It’s easy to find Chilean cherries and Australian citrus in December as well as fresh pineapple, mangoes and sugar cane practically all year.
But people can find pick of the season field- and orchard-ripened produce at Whidbey Island farmers markets. These markets offer shoppers a taste of the island’s crops and characters.
The 21st century’s bounty has drawn people to local farmers markets where folks can make a connection with their food. Shoppers can find out who grew lettuce and peas and garlic and potatoes under what conditions and chemicals. Cooks swap recipes with growers. And everyone who attends supports local agriculture and businesses.
Markets don’t sell only produce. Fresh flowers brighten the market with everything from spring’s daffodils to late summer lilies, dahlias and riotous sunflowers.
Scrumptious baked goods tempt strollers and people can buy anything from soaps and jewelry to photographs and pottery to plants and driftwood objets d’art.
Washington state’s farmers market appreciation week kicks off Aug. 7 and runs through Aug. 14. This week is an ideal time for people to discover Whidbey Island’s five markets, Peg Tennant said, as each market is filled with the peak of summer produce.
Tennant said Whidbey Island’s five markets in Oak Harbor, Coupeville, Greenbank, South Whidbey and Bayview vary but each offers great products at great values.
Oak Harbor’s market came to the market scene eight years ago. However, local farmers markets aren’t all recent introductions to island life.
Coupeville market celebrates 25 years
Tennant sat in the parking lot of Island County courthouse with Sheila Case-Smith when Coupeville Farmers Market started 25 years ago. In those days, a handful of farmers sold produce from their truck beds and car trunks.
When eight vendors started Coupeville’s market, Case-Smith had 35 acres planted to produce with strawberries, raspberries, broccoli, onions and spinach.
Today, Case-Smith sells herb and plant starts as well as sedums and other succulents. She plants 10 acres in produce, primarily summer squash, tomatoes, corn and rhubarb.
Case-Smith said she’s not seeing large scale processors as she did in years past.
“People buy enough for meals this week, not 40 or 50 pounds of green beans to can or freeze,” she said.
Products reflect trends, tastes
Today, Tennant no longer sits with one vendor at one market. Instead, she manages markets in Oak Harbor and Coupeville. These markets differ in size and vendor types but burst with island flavor — and practically all the produce is grown organically. Farmers may not have an organic certification, Case-Smith said, but people recognize and appreciate growers’ efforts at eliminating chemical use.
“And everything tastes better than supermarket produce does,” a woman said, swooping in to examine Case Farm’s squash.
As shoppers become more educated about produce, growers have met these demands.
“More people are asking for specific varieties of produce,” Tennant said. “Instead of green beans, they want ‘Blue Lake’ green beans.”
Tennant said farmers grow Asian greens like tatsoi and bok choy today. Years ago, not even grocery stores carried Asian food. And specialty food stores had yet to be established.
“And 25 years ago, you could hardly get anyone to buy a head of garlic.”
At Coupeville’s market, Georgie Smith of Willowood Farm brings many garlic varieties with poetic names like Spanish Rojo and Georgian Fire.
Tennant said shoppers want fresh herbs along with artichokes, items which have crept into the market over the years.
“As people are more aware of the sources of their food, growers expand to meet requests for specific varities and wider choice,” Tennant said.
Coupeville’s Saturday market attracts staunch regulars as well as tourists and people with summer homes on Whidbey. Bed and breakfasts visitors wander about, selecting artwork or salad ingredients. Folks with weekend homes often buy lavish flower bouquets at pennies on Seattle prices.
“People should come check us out,” Tennant said while acting as a banker, giving vendors change for $20 bills, at Coupeville Farmers Market July 31.
Community effort creates market
Tennant said the 8-year-old Thursday afternoon market in Oak Harbor continues to reach out to all of North Whidbey.
“An evening option is nice for vendors and shoppers,” Tennant said.
Community leaders as well as farmers formed this market intentionally. And by all accounts it’s a success.
“We’ve grown from six or eight vendors at City Beach to 70 here on Highway 20,” Tennant said.
This market has a few more large growers than Coupeville’s, but every farmer at every market is committed to bringing fresh, just-picked produce to town.
Because it’s an evening market, people don’t have to shop, go home and cook. They can get a full meal Thursday without chopping, slicing or sauteeing. Vendors provide Asian delicacies of lumpia and pancit. Others offer grilled sausages and hot dogs. Grabbing dessert is simple in Oak Harbor, a basket of berries, some peaches or a Brain Freeze, shaved ice with fruity syrup.
Early in the season, arts and crafts eclipses produce but well-wrapped farmers bring greens, storage onions and a few potatoes that lasted the season. As days lengthen and warm, more fresh-from-the-field food appears. Rhubarb stalks, tender spinach and plant starts fill baskets. Then a flood of berries, cherries, beets, cauliflower, broccoli and peas hit. Beans, squash, artichokes, apples, garlic, tomatoes, melons and corn follow.
Late season markets concentrate on the last of the tomatoes, cool season greens, apples, winey pears, potatoes and winter squash.
No matter the season, farmers have nourished each crop and hand-selected each bit of produce at its peak to tempt shoppers eager for freshest flavor and most intense taste.
