ISLAND FLAVORS: Let red wines, rich food warm you this winter

When the weather is warm and dry, nothing is more refreshing than a crisp, cold glass of dry white wine. However, when it is as dark and blustery (as it is while I write this), my thoughts turn toward sitting beside a warm fire with a hearty, nourishing meal and a glass of velvety red wine.

When the weather is warm and dry, nothing is more refreshing than a crisp, cold glass of dry white wine. However, when it is as dark and blustery (as it is while I write this), my thoughts turn toward sitting beside a warm fire with a hearty, nourishing meal and a glass of velvety red wine. In addition to the pleasure a glass or two of good red wine provides, medical reports conclude that red wine contains powerful antioxidants that help keep our hearts healthy, and, that drinking a glass or two with dinner helps relieve stress.

Red wines vary stylistically from light, fruity wines with refreshing acidity, to rich, full-bodied wines packed with intense, complex flavors and bold tannins. Like white wines, red wines start with colorless grape juice. The red color results when the grape juice sits in contact with the dark-colored grape skins. Along with imparting color, the skins also add tannin, an astringent substance that contributes texture and flavor to the wine.

Lighter reds, such as Pinot Noir, Chianti, and Beaujolais, are versatile wines that easily cross over into food territories once reserved for white wines. With refreshing acids, vigorous fruit flavors laced with leather and cedar, and a silky texture, these lighter reds are delicious with succulent braised meats including rabbit and roast chicken. Other dishes that work well with these lighter reds include pasta, duck, and lamb. You can also highlight the earthy sweetness of vegetable dishes, especially those made with eggplant or potatoes with any of these varietals. Thanks to their refreshing acidity, lighter red wines also pair nicely with full-flavored fish, including salmon, tuna, and swordfish.

Full bodied reds, including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Zinfandel, and Meritage (produced from a classic Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec), are packed with rich, ripe fruit balanced by refreshing tannins and notes of spice and vanilla from oak-barrel fermentation. These robust reds hold up well to full-flavored meats including lamb and beef. I especially enjoy the toasty oak quality of these barrel-aged wines with charcoal grilled meats. These fruity, ripe reds also harness the acidic quality of savory tomato sauces.

With its soft, rich fruit and velvety texture, Merlot is delicious with traditional red-wine dishes, and can cross into new wine and food territories. Try Merlot with grilled salmon, and with some spicy Asian dishes, such as meat-based curry dishes with hot notes of ginger and garlic. For dessert, pair these big, rich reds with bittersweet chocolate or fresh fruit and a pungent blue-veined cheese.

I hope you will enjoy these recipes from my friend John Sarich (culinary sirector for Chateau Ste. Michelle Winery) as much as I do.

Braised

short ribs

Serves 6

During the chilly months of fall and winter, there is something so comforting about dishes that simmer for a long time, filling the house with fragrant aromas. In this recipe, beef ribs cook slowly with wine and other aromatic elements, producing a succulent, full-flavored dish that blends wonderfully into the rich black cherry flavors and velvety texture of a spicy, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon.

3 pounds beef short ribs, separated

Flour for dredging

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 slices bacon, diced

1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup Roma tomatoes, chopped

1 carrot, grated

1-2 tablespoons tomato paste

1/8-cup chopped celery leaves

2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 tablespoon dry mustard

1 clove

Pinch of sugar

Pinch of orange zest

1 cup Cabernet Sauvignon, or other dry red wine

1 cup French onion soup (dry soup mixed with 1 cup water)

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 375° F. Dredge the short ribs in flour. Heat a Dutch oven, or large heavy pot with a fitted lid, over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil. When hot, add the short ribs and brown on all sides. Remove the short ribs and set aside. Add the bacon, onion and garlic. Cook until the onions are tender and the bacon is golden on the edges, about 10 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and grated carrot; cook until softened. Stir in the tomato paste, celery leaves, parsley, rosemary, thyme, dry mustard, clove, sugar, orange zest, French onion soup, Cabernet Sauvignon, salt and pepper, mixing well. Place the short ribs back in the pot; cover and place in the oven. Cook for about 1 hour, stirring occasionally, until the meat is very tender. Distribute the ribs among serving bowls or plates. Ladle sauce generously over the ribs.

Pork roast with

savory cherry sauce

Serves 6 to 8

Select a full-bodied Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon with intense layers of rich dark cherry and cassis fruit, vanilla and spice. These flavors work beautifully with this succulent pork roast served with a savory cherry sauce spiced with orange, cloves and fresh thyme.

1 3- to 4-pound boneless pork loin roast

2 cloves garlic, slivered

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 tablespoon dry mustard powder

1 tablespoon white Worcestershire sauce

1/8-cup Merlot, or other dry red wine

1/2-teaspoon salt

1/4-teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Savory cherry sauce

2 strips bacon, finely diced

1 small yellow onion, diced

1 garlic clove, minced

1 celery stalk, diced

2 cups chicken stock

1 cup Merlot, or other dry red wine

1 clove

2 sprigs fresh thyme, minced

1 teaspoon dry mustard powder

1 cup fresh sweet cherries, pitted and halved (frozen cherries may be substituted)

1/2-teaspoon orange zest

With a small, sharp knife, make small incisions in the pork roast every 2-inches. Stuff each incision with a sliver of garlic. Whisk together the olive oil, parsley, thyme, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, wine, salt and pepper. Rub this mixture over the pork loin. Let the pork marinate for 1 hour. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350° F. Set the pork loin in a roasting pan. Bake for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until the internal temperature reaches 170° F. Remove the pork loin from the roasting pan and cover to keep warm.

Pour the pork drippings into a heavy skillet and heat over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until golden brown. Stir in the onion, garlic and celery, and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the stock, wine, clove, thyme and mustard. Simmer briskly until the sauce is thickened and reduced by 1/2 volume, about 15 minutes. Strain the mixture through a sieve and return to the skillet. Bring the sauce to a simmer. Stir in the cherries and orange zest and simmer for another 5 to 10 minutes.

To serve: Slice the pork loin into 1/2-inch thick slices and arrange on serving plates. Spoon the sauce and the cherries over the pork.