ISLAND FLAVORS From colossal to jumbo to tiny — shrimp are shrimp
Published 8:00 pm Monday, October 22, 2001
You have no doubt heard the joke about the oxymoron “jumbo shrimp.” How can a shrimp be “jumbo?” we ask. Well, ponder this — shrimp can even be “extra colossal,” meaning that the edible tail portion is about 3-inches long and about 1 1/2- inches wide. Now that’s a big shrimp. “Jumbos” are about 2-inches long, and the size decreases on down to “tiny” shrimp, which are a mere 1 1/4-inch long. But no matter what their size, shrimp are shrimp, and, provided they have been handled properly, they are all sweet, tasty and nutritious.
Adding to the confusion about shrimp is the name game. Are they shrimp or prawns? What kind are they? To begin, there are several hundred species of shrimp distributed throughout the waters of the world. It would be impossible to name them all here. Basically, there are two broad scientific categories: Cold-water or northern shrimp are carideans. Most belong to the family Pandalidae and these tiny pink shrimp are known as pandalids. Some common names we use for these local shrimp are spot shrimp, bay shrimp, pink shrimp, coon shrimp, and northern shrimp. The other category is tropical shrimp, which are called penaeids. In the market, these tropical shrimp are commonly divided by the color of their shells — white, brown, pink and red. There is also the striped or “tiger shrimp.” While shells may vary, when shrimp are peeled and cooked, their meats all look and taste very similar.
Is there a difference between shrimp and prawns? That is still under debate. In the western U.S., many people use the term “prawn” to describe larger shrimp. In the commercial business, some consider freshwater species to be prawns and the marine species to be shrimps. Next question: Is the plural form of shrimp “shrimp” or “shrimps?” Shrimps is applied to multiple species, and shrimp is used to describe multiple individuals of a given species.
What we do know for certain, is that shrimp are very delicious and highly nutritious. They are low in cholesterol (a 3 1/2-ounce serving contains about 100 milligrams of cholesterol — about 1/3 the cholesterol in one egg). Shrimp are high in protein and low in calories; that same portion containing about 1/2 gram of fat, which is mostly polyunsaturated, containing moderate amounts of omega-3 fatty acids — the good stuff that has been found to lower cholesterol. Shrimp is also a good source of calcium and phosphorus.
Most shrimp in the U.S. are sold peeled and cooked. Fortunately, with so many local fishermen, we often find fresh shrimp offered in the shells when they are in season. If the heads are still on, pull them off quickly, as they contain a digestive acid that turns the edible portion mushy. To peel a shrimp, slip your thumb or the blade of a knife between the legs, and peel the shell away from the meat. Use caution, as the shells are spiny. If desired, remove the tail by removing pinching it off. Also, it isn’t necessary for health reasons, but some prefer for aesthetic reasons to devein shrimp (the vein is part of their digestive track and can be gritty). To do this, slice along the top curve of the shrimp after removing the shell and pull or scrape the vein from the meat.
Large shrimp can be broiled or grilled in their shells and some people, including myself, enjoy eating the crisp shells, especially if they’ve been marinated in garlic and herbs. Remove the legs and heads before cooking them in the shell — but leave the tails intact as they make great handles.
So much for Shrimp 101, or should I say Shrimps? Now, onto some recipes . . .
GRILLED SHRIMP IN ORANGE, GARLIC, AND CORIANDER MARINADE
Serves 4 as an appetizer
Look for shrimp (or prawns) in the shell that are 2 to 3-inches in length. Serve six to eight shrimp per serving. Flavored with citrus and spice, these shrimp pair nicely with a crisp Pinot Gris or Semillon.
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 bunch fresh coriander, chopped
1/2-teaspoon salt
1/4-teaspoon black pepper
1/4-teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2-teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Juice of 2 oranges
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
24 to 32 large shrimp or prawns, unpeeled (heads and legs removed)
In a blender or food processor, blend the garlic, coriander, spices and sugar. Add the vinegar and orange juice. With the blender running, slowly add the olive oil until it becomes thick. Taste and adjust seasonings. Set aside 1/4 of the marinade.
Clean the shrimp and marinate in the vinaigrette for at least one hour (cover and refrigerate). Thread shrimp crosswise onto 4 skewers. Grill the shrimp over hot coals until the shells turn bright orange (about 3-4 minutes per side). Serve with the remaining marinade.
Recommended wines: Pinot Gris, Semillon, Fume Blanc
CHAMPAGNE POACHED PRAWNS
Serves 2 as a main course
This elegant dish is quick and simple to prepare. Serve the prawns (or shrimp) with crusty bread and a green salad.
1 tablespoon butter
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2-cups champagne or sparkling wine
1 teaspoon dried tarragon, crumbled
16 large (2 1/2 to 3-inch prawns or shrimp, shelled and deveined
Salt and pepper to taste
Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in the garlic and sauté about 1 minute, just until it turns golden. Stir in the champagne, tarragon and prawns, mixing well. Cook just until the prawns turn pink, about 5 minutes. Lift the prawns from the skillet with a slotted spoon and keep warm. Bring the cooking liquid to a boil and simmer for about 5 minutes to reduce slightly. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Arrange the prawns on a platter with a bowl of the poaching broth in the center for dipping.
Recommended wine: Champagne
